Posts Tagged With: Guilin

Slow boat to Yangshou-cruising down the River Li.

Next day I felt a lot better, which proved to me it can’t have been the food. Plus I now appeared to have a new neck that could move as it should on my shoulders and was no longer locked after all the time spent hanging over a laptop at work. Wow, what good news.
Today promised to be a real highlight of the trip as we were due to go down the River Li on our boat cruise. This is said to be the most beautiful river in the world as featured in all the Classical Chinese paintings. The River Li winds its way through the stunning Karst limestone scenery which I’d heard much about from geography and geology way back at school.
We started the cruise on one of the newest boats on the River Li, which our guide assured us was purely by luck. It was very smart and we were assigned seats on the 2nd level deck.
However, as soon as we were able we were up, standing on the top deck admiring the views. Then we spent the next 4 hours nearly, standing here, as we very slowly cruised down the river. This really is a beautiful, peaceful experience as all the hustle and bustle of Guilin (and the world) just drifted away.
The river is only an average of 2m deep and we sailed along a stretch that I think is 63 kilometres between Guilin and Yangshou. As we got about 1.5 hours away from Guilin we entered the part of the river that is most scenic. The river is wonderfully clear and we were surrounded by the most incredible peaks with names like Bat Hill, Five Fingers Hill and the Painted Hill of Nine Horses. It went on for miles and it really surpassed my expectations. I must admit this has been somewhere I have always wanted to see but I was a little afraid it would be spoiled. I’m pleased to say that, despite the numbers of boats in our flotilla, it hasn’t been, as the other boats just added colour and scale to the splendour.
It is hard to describe in words but I hope Jane’s photos give you a bit of a feel for it. Mind you, all this scenery is exhausting and Joyce and Enid had a little afternoon nap before we arrived in Yangshou!!

















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Guilin….rice terraces and relaxation.

Enough of Chengdu already. For the past few days we have been based in Guilin after another 1.5 hour flight approx from Chengdu. Once we’d got past the serious issue of Joyce’s passport/ticket mismatch again (this time Elena had to get the airline to change the booking before a boarding pass could be issued..) we were allowed onto the Air China plane. This has to be the most chaotic, noisy flight I have ever been on with people running up and down even as we were about to take off. Nevertheless it all went smoothly.
So, yes, Guilin, a small place at one end of the Li River..or so I thought. The drive in from the airport was very promising with lovely new, landscaped roads but as we approached the city centre those awful tower blocks appeared once more. To be fair this is a smaller city of just 800,000 inhabitants but how come then, that it still has a main street that, at night, resembles Oxford Street complete with double decker buses?
Our hotel here has been the Hotel Bravo which is a big hotel used by lots of tour groups and it’s about a 15 mins walk from ‘Oxford Street’. It immediately had a different feel to it, more of a holiday hotel than business, partly because it is SO hot and humid here! When we landed it was 84 degrees but then we really are quite far south now. The hotel even has an outdoor swimming pool although you have to wear a bathing hat if you want to go in it. Oh come on…really? I left mine with the lovely plastic flowers on it at home.
We had a day and a half off here to relax a bit after all the previous running about we’ve been doing. This was much needed and allowed us to recharge our batteries a bit. It helped that on the full day it actually rained and so we couldn’t really do much at all although Joyce and Enid still managed to go shopping and bought lots of handbags at bargain prices. We spent some time seeking out alternative eating experiences as there has been a bit more on offer here. We’ve had a pizza at ‘Amani’ which resembled a French pavement cafe and then an Indian which was really, really good. Both highly recommended on Trip Advisor.
We explored the pedestrian street and shops but really other than this there isn’t much to do in Guilin itself. As part of our planned relaxation we decided to all have massages in the hotel. Joyce and Enid went first and then Jane and me. We didn’t see the other girls in between so no chance for them to warn us. We had chosen to have head and neck massages which sounded just the thing but when we arrived we were invited to sit down in what looked like barbers chairs. This was the beauty salon of the hotel and not at all private. Then the two Chinese girls set to work.. with us (and them obviously) fully clothed and no sign of any aromatic oils. Very odd business Chinese massage. They proceeded to poke, push, pull, slap, thump, bash, pinch, scratch and claw us. It was quite hurty at times as they got to grips with our heads, arms, hands, backs and shoulders. After an hour of this we were somewhat dazed and said ‘thanks’ and were on our way.
The next day, after the Indian, I woke up feeling rather unwell with stomach pains and generally on another planet. It seemed to get worse during the day and I honestly think now that it wasn’t the Indian but this massage that had made me feel bad. Enid says its something to do with released toxins. I think it’s to do with going out and drinking beer and eating spicy curry after a Chinese massage.
Either way I felt rough and didn’t really want to play. How marvelous it was then, that the tour today involved travelling two hours (have you noticed its two hours to everywhere here?) in the van along the most awful bumpy, bendy roads to get to the rice terraces at Longji! Yes, it was truely torture as I rolled from side to side in agony. Still I was determined not to miss out, even though when we arrived we still had to climb up 800 steps to get to the best viewpoints.
We took it very slowly as we were all actually suffering from the heat and humidity. We walked up through some old traditional villages and met some of the people from the Yeow ethnic minority here. This groups speciality is that the girls only ever cut there hair twice in their life. Once at 18 and once at 50. They wear it tied up in different types of knot at the front depending on how many children they have. Their hair is always really beautiful and shiny and black and supposedly never goes grey. It did seem to be true on the women we saw. The elderly people were sitting selling stuff to all the visitors ( and there are lots of visitors) such as fruit and chillies or string sandals they’d made. It was a little bit sad seeing them have to do this but it certainly seemed to be providing much needed income for the village as there was a lot of building work going on even here.
Our new guide here in Guilin is Chanel. She has the best English yet and tells us good stories in a very visual way including how to tell someone ‘I love’ you in Chinese. Just say “Wall I knee’. She led us up the hill until we found the spot for the best views of rice terraces in the whole world. There was a sign saying this so it must be true. It really is incredibly high so the views are spectacular even if the day was a bit hazy and the rice crop had already been harvested.
After the climb we came back down to the village and stopped for lunch at a nice, busy restaurant sitting on their balcony over-looking the village and terraces. The girls ate rice cooked in bamboo and salty green beans whilst I sipped slowly on the magical Coke Zero known in Mexico for its healing powers. Then we had the long drive back past other ethnic villages such as the Dhong and Meow people.
I stayed in that night as the girls went out for a Chinese at McFounds. I had a good sleep and then, when I felt upto it Jane got me my tea. A Snickers bar, some plain Pringles and a nice cup of tea. I knew I would feel better the next day. Meanwhile I lay thinking about the Meow people and realised that that is something you don’t see in China. Cats. Now why is that….?













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